Fall 2009 Men's Fashion: The XI Way

Fellas, this one is for you!

It’s the beginning of August... The end of the summer is nearing and the autumn temperatures will be here before we know it. And so goes the fashion… It’s almost time to put up the whites and lighter fabrics and trade them in for darker colors and warmer, heavier textures. So, let’s switch gears and focus on men’s fashions for Fall 2009 season. "It's easy to beat the summer heat when you know fall is around the corner. And this fall is particularly exciting, due to all the fun product coming out. Color, fabrication, and unexpected nuances will bring the store to life this season" says Tommy Fazio, men's fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman in New York.

The main theme for this fall from designers and store buyers: Although we’re in a recession, quality, value, and especially personal style will not be sacrificed. In other words, you won’t see cheap, crappy-looking clothing in stores this fall just because the economy is bad; this year it’s all about classic, timeless investment pieces. Co-owner of Odin in New York, Eddy Chai, states "many people have reverted to a more conservative and practical approach to fashion, due to the economy. But you shouldn't have to sacrifice style to get value and timelessness." And that is the recurring theme that I’ve seen for Men’s Fashions this fall and well into the winter. Classic American design laced with the traditional style of the Brits and Frenchmen brings about tailored silhouettes and timeless structured staples. Whether you are a dapper businessman, an edgy motorcycle guy, or a rugged outdoorsman, there is something for every man this fall. "Fall 2009 is the season when men will turn to iconic items to convey their personal style. Men take comfort in the confidence that comes along with wearing strong pieces that define who we are to the outside world" says Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president for menswear at Barneys New York.

Let's go! I AM XI's suggestions for Fall 2009 Men's Fashion... (click images for bigger picture)

Outerwear:
Opt for a relax-fitting, classic trench coat and/or a slim-fit, sturdy peacoat in black, charcoal gray, or tan. These two staples are definitely worth the money you would spend on them.


Left: BBlessing; Right: Rag & Bone; Bottom: Burberry


Left: Spurr; Right: Richard Chai

If you are a man who likes that edgier look, go for a subtle, structured fatigue jacket. The fatigue jackets in brown leather and gray suede pictured below will look very sharp when paired with jeans and a Henley tee for a weekend look.

Left: Gap; Right: Versace

Stay away from distressed motorcycle jackets especially with studs and puffer coats/vests in plaid and Fair Isle prints. These looks are extremely trendy and you just may get the side-eye from people if you showed up anywhere that’s not a motorcycle club or ski slope in these coats.

Top left: Moncler; Top right: Elizabeth & James; Bottom left: Bess NYC; Bottom right: Helmut Lang

Suits:
There is nothing like seeing a man in a NICE suit! It just exudes confidence. Double-breasted suits are being shown for fall this year, which is a great alternative to the single-breasted suit. Keep the cut of the jacket fitted but not boxy, and keep the pant leg tailored and not overly tapered. Aside from your solid colors, black, charcoal gray and navy pinstripe are being revived this year as well. Also, try pairing your suit with a matching vest for added grandeur style. And remember: no cost should be spared when purchasing a classic suit, and seeking out a good tailor is a smart idea too!

Top left: Tommy Hilfiger; Top right: Versace; Bottom left: D&G; Bottom right: Aquascutum

Stay away from plaid and corduroy suits! One name comes to mind: Mr. Brown… Need I say more?!

Left: Kolar; Right: Our Legacy

Dark on Dark on Dark:
This is the season for dark colors. Gone are the days when you pair everything with white. How blah… Dark suit, dark dress shirt, and dark tie make this look oh so clean! The trick to making this look work: mix textures and fabrics, such as wool, flannel, brushed-cotton, and cashmere. And don’t just think blacks and grays, combine blacks with brown and blacks with navy. Once thought to be a fashion faux-pas, it is no more! These colors go very well with one another if done correctly.

Left: Ralph Lauren Black Label; Right: Ralph Lauren

Blazers:
Guys, this year’s blazers are multi-functional with added detailing for a crisper look. The blazers are sporting elbow patches, gold buttons, smaller flap pockets, and no lapels. Interesting, I know…but if you are a bit daring and want to try something different this fall’s blazer is for you. Some blazers also come with heavier, quilted linings for those very cold November nights, and some are reversible for 'more bang for your buck.' Herringbone gray flannel, corduroy (the jacket alone is fine), cashmere, and jersey-like wool are great fabrics to try these blazers on for size.


Top left: Michael Bastian; Top right: Moncler Gamme Bleu; Bottom left: Engineered Garments; Bottom right: Devoa

Plaid Dress Shirts:
Now, let me put my disclaimer on this first: I am not a fan of plaid shirts on anyone; dressy or otherwise. Gone are the days of the '90s and the red & black lumberjack, unless of course you are a lumberjack. HOWEVER, if you choose to wear plaid this season as a variation to the white, blue, and striped shirts: keep it very simple, sharply tailored, and subtle. These plaid shirts can be dressed up or down and when paired with a solid or downplayed tie, blazer or suit with the same color scheme, this look works.


Top left: Tommy Hilfiger; Top right: Michael Bastian; Bottom left: Tom Ford; Bottom right: Woolrich

But, DEFINITELY do so with caution. PLEASE do not go overboard; the plaid speaks for itself and it will become your main focal point.


Left: Paul Smith; Right: H&M/Urban Outfitters

Sweaters & Tees:
Now, you can never go wrong with a classic cashmere sweater. They come in a variety of colors and can be worn layered with a dress shirt or tee underneath. But, Henley tees are becoming an alternative to the V-Neck sweater. They are cooler, in a James Dean kind of way, and can be worn layered as well or alone.


Top: Bergdorf Goodman; Bottom left: Gilded Age; Bottom right: Dolce & Gabbana

Fair Isle sweaters..(*blank stare*)… Unless you want to look like Leave it to Beaver, be my guest. But, this granddaddy-print sweater can stay in cedar closet forever.


Left: Burberry Prorsum; Right: Benjamin Bixby

Jeans:
Your jeans should be straight-leg, relaxed-fitting, and comfortable. Jeans come in various shades and colors. Opt for the colors in dark black (never let the become faded), navy blue, gray, and khaki (everything you get from a Docker-style pant but in denim), in addition to your usual shades of blue. Also hot this season, laid-back distressed jeans that already look worn in.



Top left: Robert Geller; Top right: GUESS by Marciano; Bottom from left to right: Polo by Ralph Lauren, Levi's, Dsquared

Ok, MEN…Please, I repeat, PLEASE DO NOT WEAR SKINNY JEANS! AVOID skinny jeans at all cost! They are not the bizness nor will they help you get the bizness…well, unless you’re – XI doesn’t discriminate, we love everyone, but you get my point – I digress… this is not a good look…end of story, PERIOD. This is not up for debate, just don’t do it! And, really, what’s the purpose of saggin’ them?! It’s so corny! Stop it! It’s played. Jeans should FIT and should not be TOO baggy!


Top left: Marc by Marc Jacobs; Top right: Balmain; Bottom left: Oak (w leather insets); Bottom right: Givenchy


Overall, fellas, keep it classic with a slight edge but remember to stay true to your personal style.

**Each of these looks can be remixed with high & low-end pieces. As you can see, I pulled from 'very high-end' to 'middle of the road' to 'on a strict budget' stores and brands.**


Sources: GQ, Details, men.style.com

Fashion: The XI Way...Shoe Rehab!

So everyone has a shopping weakness. I have several but right now I’m definitely feeling platform sandals. I lost my mind this month and over shopped. I literally caught myself in a ball out moment, paused for a personal intervention and put myself on a serious timeout. And at the end of it all I still needed a few items. One was a cute pair of gold sandals. So I gave myself a challenge. I would purchase the sandals if, and only if, they were on sale and less than $50. Yeah I know I set myself up for mission impossible. To some, this may not sound so hard. My issue is I am not rich but I prefer not to buy certain brands (nothing wrong with them just a personal preference). I’m happy to say that I found a hot pair of gold sandals on sale for $19.99 and FREE shipping. Yup, sure did! Unlisted by Kenneth Cole – Lounge Wear (http://www.piperlime.com/). I was hesitant because I thought it was too good to be true. I thought they would either look chincy or feel like glass shards, I mean cheap leather, and cut into my sensitive feet. I was pleasantly surprised! These sexy gold gladiator platforms are HOT! And they look even hotter on. I love bright pink toes so my feet just pop in these good thangs. Unfortunately, they don’t have many sizes left (yippee, I don’t want everyone in my shoes) but they do have a silver pair for $29.99. I’m in a sharing is caring mood… Enjoy!

Fashion: The XI Way...Say it ain't so, J.Lo!

So, I guess the recession is hitting everyone in the pockets these days. It seems that Jennifer Lopez has temporarily suspended her line Sweetface as it enters a restructuring phase, WWD reported Wednesday. Sweetface, a clothing line created for the ‘about-town diva within’ in 2003, was Jenny from the Block’s 3rd attempt at a clothing brand that no longer exists in the U.S. Her J.LO brand (launched in 2001) was shut down in the U.S. and replaced with justsweet, launched in 2007, a sexy & sparkly mix of pants, jumpsuits and dresses to bridge the gap between her casual J.LO line and the high-fashion Sweetface. justsweet was discontinued after only a few seasons. In 2006, the Sweetface brand reported $200 million in sales, as it converted its initial urban street wear brand to that of one of higher-end fashions. In a company statement, the Sweetface line plans "to reintroduce the brand in the near future with new messaging points and an entirely new fashion point of view."

Again?! I guess three’s the charm when realigning brands and visions for those brands in her case... Well, maybe, that remains to be seen. I’m assuming slumping sales and a downward sloping economy are due to these brands demise, (here’s hoping) and not her creative designs because Lopez is a talented individual and has been touted as one of Hollywood’s ‘best dressed’. However, designing may not be her forté. In my opinion, naming clothing lines Sweetface and justsweet does not appeal to many grown women in our movement and would have been better suited for a little girl’s designer clothing line. I don’t know about you, but grown women aren’t ‘justsweet’ or ‘Sweetface.’ We want to exude sexiness and sophistication, not sweetness. And as for her fashions, tracksuits for IamXI are on reserve for comfort and relaxation only and not for attending parties and walking red carpets. I didn’t much follow her clothing lines after I graduated from college in 2003 due to the fact that all I saw were those damn tracksuits, but obviously she has been missing more than hitting when it comes to her brands.

But, hey, if you are one who is checking for Lopez’s clothing lines, Sweetface debuted its Spring 2009 collection late last year and can currently be found in stores such as Intermix. And the J.LO brand is still selling overseas in 40 countries.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009 – NBA “Pre” Draft Party

Tuesday night’s draft party was held at Amalia restaurant and lounge in NYC. Unlike the “pre” NFL draft party held at M2 in NYC, this event was very organized. No long lines (well not when I got there), no pushing, no yelling, no 3 hour wait to figure out that there’s 28 lines and a crowd swarming the front and no one is getting in until after 1:00am although you killed yourself to get there by 10pm. Kudos to the event planners! Amalia is an elegant venue with silk wallpaper, glass chandeliers, backlit mosaic tiled stairs, and distressed brick walls. Dim the lights, break out the candles, turn up the music and it’s my kinda place!!!

This event was definitely a buffet for the men. By 11:30pm there was a nice crowd…..but mostly females. By 12:30am there was an even better crowd and the music was good, but again mostly females. Nothing wrong with the ladies, but something’s just not right when you’re at a nice event and the ratio of women to men is approximately 12:1. I know the “NBA” aspect brings the female crowd but don’t guys know they need to come too?? The ladies buy an outfit, get their hair done and go through all the prep work for the event. They all won’t snag an athlete! There should be a strong crew of guys plotting on those who just came to party, those who don’t make the cut, and those who aren’t bold enough to sneak into VIP. I’m not implying anything, just emphasizing the need for an equal playing field. Overall, it was a decent party. The real draft party is on Thursday. No, I won’t slip and say where so everyone can blame me when the door looks like feeding time at the zoo. But if the music is great, the drinks are flowing and the crowd looks good like on Tuesday night (just with a tad bit more males) then it might be worth going to work with little to no sleep and struggling to keep the bags of sand, I mean eyelids, open! Stay tuned….. If I actually make it there, I’ll fill you in on the details.

BET Awards 2009: Pre-Awards edition

Ok, so I hope that I am not the only one who's anticipating this year's BET Awards show. But, I'm sure that I will be the only one who will be downloading a blank ballot and posting my winning picks because I know XIKhai won't be. (LOL!) But, maybe I can convince her to do a "XI picks the winners" post. (Hint hint)... But, who really cares about the actual awards themselves? Only BET and the nominees. The rest of us are only interested in viewing the other three elements of the show: the host, the performances, and the surprises.

Well, first and foremost, four words: Jamie Foxx is hosting... And the foolishness that will ensue has me on edge. AH! The hilarity of it all... Can't wait!

Secondly, the artists scheduled to perform:

Monica (See Keyshia Cole, because I mean really, what album does she currently have out?)

Keyshia Cole ("Trust" featuring Monica I'm sure will be performed, since Monica is slated to be on stage somewhere.)

Fabolous (Does he have an album, single, or even a ringtone out now? If so, clearly, I missed it.)

Young Jeezy ("My President" would be so apropos this year... Don't you think?)

Beyonce (Anyone who knows me knows that IAMXI is EXPECTING B to sing "Ego." If she comes out singing anything off that "I Am" album or "At Last," there will be a SERIOUS PROBLEM!)

Jay-Z (Aww, I wonder if many in the audience will be offended since J has declared "Death of Autotune.")

Ne-Yo (Ooooh! Wouldn't a "Miss Independent (She's Got Her Own)" performance with Jamie be wonderful?! HEY, maybe that's what F-a-b-o-l-o-u-s will be doing there.)

Maxwell (Ok, thinking about this man makes my heart skip a beat. And his comeback on the 2008 show had me LOVING whatever he was singing. So I'm looking forward to "Pretty Wings" being performed live, but it really doesn't even matter!)

Soulja Boy (I'm sure all of those who "hopped up out the bed" and turn their swag on will appreciate this one...)

Kanye West (I never get tired of seeing Ye perform, so anything he performs as he steps on that stage would be great! The old Ye is back!)

Mary Mary (I LOVE LOVE LOVE "God in Me," so I pray they perform this.)

Keri Hilson (Supposedly, she was just confirmed to perform today. And with Ne-Yo & Ye on deck, I'm looking forward to a "Knock You Down" performance.)

BET is also tweeting they have one more slot to fill, and they are asking fans to vote for Drake. So, maybe we'll get a summer performance from the hottest, newest act in the game right now.

Other than the performances and awards to be given out, there will be a few surprises per usual as BET always has something up its sleeves. Supposedly, there will be an announcement made about the television show, The Game, and it's possible move to BET... Details are still being worked out though. But, here's hoping...

So I will be patiently, but anxiously awaiting the BET Awards show which airs Sunday, June 28 @ 8pm eastern.

Hey, maybe IAMXI will blog LIVE about all of the fashion, performances, and foolishness that will take place on the black carpet and on the main stage.

Ode to Harem Pants...

This is for IamXI and her AWESOME Harem pants post.

Disclaimer: Dangerous levels of HILARITY below...

The Next Best Amateur Fashion Designer

OK, I'm not sure what happened between Bravo & Project Runway and why it'll be premiering its sixth season on Lifetime, but that's a union that should have never separated. Now, Bravo has replaced Project Runway with The Fashion Show. The Fashion Show is a reality-based TV show with a similar premise, but without the couture & avant-garde designers of Project Runway. Now, I'm not sure what barrel they scrape these "designers" up from or how far they had to dig to reach the bottom, but I'm less than impressed. They are nothing more than amateurs and that's putting it nicely since this is a show in search of the next great fashion designer.

Five weeks in and every episode of this show has either had me side eying my television or ready to throw my Blackberry at it. The first episode, these "designers" created a collection around a must-have item: harem pants (You're side eying your computer, aren't you?). The next couple of episodes, a few of the "designers" had the audacity to complain during the judging. One complained that "this is not America's Next Best Seamstress" when Isaac (as in Mizrahi, a judge on the show) called him out for poor construction of his frock. He LEFT safety pins in it as his model walked down the RUNWAY! (GASP! While clutching the Tiffany) Another "designer" stole detailing designs from his competitors in TWO challenges, but wasn't sent home after being called out for it in the first. But, none of those put the icing on the cake like last week's episode 'Shape Shifters.' For the elimination challenge, these amateurs had to design flattering outfits that disguise problem areas for real women. To their surprise all of their models weren't size zeros, instead they were of various shapes, sizes, and heights. OK, let's pause for the cause, when Isaac announced this elimination challenge I sat there thinking "Wow, what a great idea! This should be good!" Wouldn't you think given all the talk about how clothes aren't made for real women this would be a great challenge for the "designers?" Well, I thought wrong... dammit if those "designers" didn't bitch and complain as to why they weren't use to designing for anyone other than the cookie-cutter sizes of the models they had previously designed outfits for to walk the runway. I was appalled! Like every women in the world is a size 2! We're tall, short, petite, full figured, curvy, thin, etc. Isaac even told one "designer" she had a "sizist attitude." How are they calling themselves "designers" when they can't create wearable clothing for the masses?!

Again I say, I'm not sure WHY Project Runway is now apart of Lifetime Television but Bravo made an obvious mistake in letting it go. And I cannot figure out WHY Bravo chose their mail room clerks, sanitation engineers, and coffee-fetching minions to hurriedly pose as "designers" in the first season of this very generic version of their own Project Runway. It's just baffling...SMH

I cannot tell you how done I am with this show!

In August, I'll be tuned into Project Runway.

Must Have Item: Harem Pants???

NOT!

Harem pants, better known as, Hammer pants are making a very unnecessary comeback. This trend gone wrong never was a good look on anyone back in the late 80s and it's not a good look on anyone in 2009. Pants that don't fit in the crouch are NOT complimentary on anyone. Looking like you crapped in your pants is neither cute nor attractive, I don't care how thin or shapely you are. Ill-fitting pants should be replaced with trouser-styles that are either wide leg (to disguise big thighs) or skinny leg (for straight & narrow body types). It is wiser to invest in pants that fit your body style and that compliment your assets. Purchasing harem pants are a waste of money and won't last throughout the season. This is such a fading trend that I've already seen harem pants on the clearance racks.